“Like sands through the hourglass, so are the days of our lives” utters the popular opening credits narration from the daytime soap, Days of Our Lives. This also rings true for Ferzan Özpetek’s latest film Diamanti, which heavily peers through time’s hourglass in its depiction of the past and present flitting through fiction and reality in a sweeping, compelling, melodramatic case of docu fiction. Diamanti is somewhat autobiographical as Özpetek transplants himself in the tale as a director within a mise-en-abyme, inspired by his early experience as an assistant director, as he renders homage to many of the actresses that he has worked with, some 18 in total, by delving into the feminine world of dressmakers working on costumes for films.
At the helm of this tale are actresses Luisa Ranieri and Jasmine Trinca impressively playing themselves but also the sisters Alberta and Gabriella in the fictional 1970s drama set within a couture house. The film takes an epic perspective through their trials and tribulations, alongside their employees, both inside and outside of the fashion business. Female solidarity, friendship and empowerment are the themes du jour, tackled with gusto, as the sisters combat demanding timelines from film directors, their personal conflicts, ghosts from the past and more. Accompanied by out of earshot gossip by the workers and Alberta’s prickly temperament, there is certainly enough drama occurring in the workplace!
However, Özpetek ups the ante to reveal the disappointments and turbulence occurring behind closed doors. The melodramatic, sweeping score, by composers Giuliano Taviani and Carmelo Travis, is one to add to your Spotify playlist as it complements the action and ratchets up the dramatic tension further. Plus those pregnant pauses, emphasised by heavy string and wind instrument orchestral sounds, where characters stare in to the distance à la Days of Our Lives, may unintentionally inject some humour into some over the top scenes. All of which makes Diamanti endearing! It is truly a homage to those lengthy, stylish, glamorous films of the past for which Italian cinema is renowned.
One could even describe this as the Cinema Paradiso for costume design. The costumes are lovingly showcased and those glorious fabrics also take centre stage. The cameras zoom in as sensuous fabric is torn, caressed, or stitched with an unparalleled adoration by Özpetek.
Diamanti does what Couture, starring Angelina Jolie, was reaching for – it provides that empathy, understanding and desire to know more about the actresses and the 1970s characters they inhabit. Each actor’s performance is commendable as they straddle at least three roles blending documentary style with fictional storytelling – and these actresses excel in their field! Thankfully, Özpetek recognises the need to give them their flowers, during their lifetime, in such a unique fashion (pun intended) in this authentically rare love letter to a craft that was typically the preserve of women.
Özpetek affectionately describes the actresses as his ‘diamonds’ within the meta opening scenes where food is gathered and shared as an expression of love and understanding. The love shared between the cast is evident as these actresses willingly immerse themselves within the past and the drama of this director’s vision, just as the audience does. As such, a sense of duality pervades Diamanti – it is an epic, rich film unafraid to be both poignant and humorous.
The duality is constant as Ōzpetek provides that unfiltered, unsentimental insight of the dynamics within this overlooked craft, as the dressmakers contend with technological changes via sewing machines and the fluctuating moods from both Alberta (Luisa Ranieri) and her sister Gabriella (Jasmine Trinca). Yet, the employees maintain their humour and sense of sisterhood and the film’s viewpoint is unwaveringly theirs. Whilst Alberta is the epitome of a toxic boss by modern standards, although Ōzpetek permits slight chinks in her armour to appear, Gabriella by contrast is more subdued and consumed by grief.
Diamanti is a feel good film overall as the women’s camaraderie overflows despite the darker, dramatic moments. However, Ōzpetek remains in the distance quietly observing and admiring. His unfettered passion for cinema – to show the world this type of distinctive costume drama story, is undeniable and makes this an utterly riveting watch. Yes, some of the slow pacing is an issue and the film’s length is noticeable towards its final acts but these aspects are minor critiques for a film this majestic.
Özpetek has truly left us with a diamond treasure trove as we are blessed with such a tremendous ensemble cast. Plus, whilst the film’s luxurious, red silk fabrics utilised for the film costumes may be reminiscent of the glitzy opening credits of another daytime soap – the Young and the Restless during 1999-2003 – Özpetek has taken the chance to display the craftsmanship from original costumes worn in The Leopard by Claudia Cardinale and in Ludwig by Romy Schneider. For this, we truly spoiled.
Such a powerful, unassuming dedication to the lost art of making epic films such as Once Upon a Time in America alongside immersing us within the style and elegance of lavish costumes. Diamanti is a moving tribute depicting a period in history that no longer seems to exist as awards for costume design are often relegated to a mere mention during awards season ceremonies, nowadays!
Diamanti is absorbing and captivating with its fusion of genres, time periods and appreciation of all arts as one character declares, ‘theatre will never die!’ Remarkably, this is Özpetek’s 15th film but written by female screenwriters thus permitting a woman’s world within the arts to be thrust into the spotlight for all to embrace. This is not just Italian cinema but a love of cinema told through costume design and entirely shot within Rome which embeds a continuous sense of beauty and awe. Unsurprisingly, Diamanti was the recipient of the audience award at the 2025 Donatella Awards which emphasises the need of audiences for more films of this genre! Far from solely being a nostalgia tinged period drama, Diamanti is an aesthetically stunning reminder to live in the present and to appreciate the arts and crafts talents. Don’t miss it!
Rating – Four stars
Diamanti (Diamonds) is now in theaters.
Learn more about the film at the IMDB site for the title.
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